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Coverage
The Wallpaper Guide is to be used as a guideline only and will not take into account the wallcoverings pattern repeat.
For an exact quantification, please call the showroom for this information.
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| How many rolls will I need? |
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WALLS (height from skirting) |
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Meters
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2.15 - 2.3
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2.3 - 2.45
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2.45 - 2.6
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2.6 - 2.75
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2.75 - 2.9
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2.9 - 3.05
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3.05 - 3.2 |
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Feet
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7 - 7.5 |
7.5 - 8 |
8 - 8.5 |
8.5 - 9 |
9 - 9.5 |
9.5 - 10 |
10 - 10.5 |
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Meters |
Feet |
Number of rolls required |
DISTANCE
AROUND
THE ROOM
(including
doors &
windows) |
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9 |
30 |
4 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
| 10 |
34 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
5 |
6 |
6 |
7 |
| 12 |
38 |
5 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
| 13 |
42 |
6 |
6 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
8 |
| 14 |
46 |
6 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
8 |
9 |
| 15 |
50 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
8 |
9 |
9 |
10 |
| 16 |
54 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
9 |
9 |
10 |
10 |
| 17 |
58 |
8 |
8 |
9 |
9 |
10 |
10 |
11 |
| 18 |
62 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
10 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
| 19 |
66 |
9 |
9 |
10 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
| 21 |
70 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
11 |
12 |
12 |
13 |
| 22 |
74 |
10 |
10 |
12 |
12 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
| 23 |
78 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
| 24 |
82 |
11 |
11 |
13 |
13 |
14 |
14 |
16 |
| 26 |
86 |
12 |
12 |
14 |
14 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
| 27 |
90 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
| 28 |
94 |
13 |
13 |
15 |
15 |
15 |
16 |
18 |
| 30 |
98 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
19 |
| Required Tools |
| 1. Pasting Table – Unless you are using a paste-the-wall wallpaper |
| 2. Pasting Brush – This should be at least 5” wide |
| 3. Bucket – Containing clean water |
| 4. Sponge – To remove any adhesive from the surface of the paper |
| 5. Plumb Bob or Spirit Level – To get your paper straight |
| 6. Pencil – To mark the wall and lengths of paper |
| 7. Scissors with a long blade – For cutting lengths of paper and trimming |
| 8. Snap-off Blade Knife – For cutting around skirtings, light switches, etc |
| 9. Tape Measure – A steel tape is best |
| 10. Paperhanger’s Brush – To smooth wallpaper onto the wall |
| Prior to removing any protective wrapping, and before cutting any wallpaper, make sure that the rolls carry the same reference, shade, batch numbers and that they are as ordered. |
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Strip away old wallcoverings with a steam stripper or by soaking with wallpaper stripper or warm water and detergent. When fully saturated, scrape off with a stripping knife. Make sure all traces of stripper or detergent are rinsed from the paintwork and wash your hands thoroughly.
Should you find the wallcovering difficult to scrape off it is probably because the surface is, at least partially, impervious. Painted woodchip, embossed and washable papers can be particularly stubborn and are best tackled by scoring with a knife or wire brush before soaking. If you have a large area to work on, consider using a steam stripper.
Vinyl wallcoverings and peelable papers can be removed by pulling away the printed top skin whilst dry, then stripping the backing paper by soaking. If the backing paper is firm, you can leave it as a base for the new wallcovering – but you must make sure it is really stuck down, otherwise blistering could result.
Make sure that the bare walls are sound, clean and dry. Fill all holes and cracks using filler, smoothing down the surface when it is set. Seal porous surfaces with either diluted wallcovering adhesive or with a wall size, following the instructions given on the packet, and allow to dry. |
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Always use the wallpaper paste or specialist adhesive recommended by the manufacturer.
Where none is mentioned, for best results, try a ready mixed tub adhesive. Ready mixed adhesive is not powder paste mixed with water; it is a PVA based glue. This produces a much stronger bond to the wall and does not make the paper too wet, so making it easier to handle.
When using ready mixed adhesive in hot weather, try to work as quickly as possible to ensure the adhesive doesn’t dry out before hanging. |
| Each wallcovering is individual and may require a specialist adhesive to be used. Certain weights of wallcoverings need a heavier weight adhesive and dependant on site situations the walls may need a primer to be applied before the wallpaper hanging can commence.
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for adhesive. |
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The best surface to apply paper to is lining paper.
A good grade paper (1000 grade recommended) will help to cover imperfections on a wall. It gives a good even surface on which to apply your top paper. It will make hanging your top paper so much easier and remember the thicker the paper the easier it is to hang. |
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The traditional method for papering a room is to work away from light, i.e. windows, but you may find it easier to paper the longest uninterrupted wall to get used to the basic techniques before tackling corners or obstructions.
If using a boldly patterned wallcovering for a wall with a chimneybreast, take this as a focal point, if you do not have a chimneybreast, start ‘setting out’ from the centre of the wall.
With a bold design, always cut the first length so that when it is hung and finally trimmed top and bottom there will be a complete motif at the top of the wall. Before cutting the next lengths ensure that the pattern matches up with the previous one. Please note that you will use more wallcovering if the design is large and has a big pattern repeat. Always keep off cuts as they may come in useful for small areas, such as above doors or around windows. |
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Few walls are truly square or perfectly vertical. To overcome this, and avoid your pattern going askew, mark a vertical pencil line against a plumb line or long spirit level adjacent to where the first length is to hang. Allow the plumb to swing freely until it is at rest before putting a pencil mark down the wall behind the string.
Repeat the process on every wall … you must hang the first piece straight on every new wall.
Use a roll of paper to mark the wall one width away from the corner – less than 15mm/0.5” for an overlap onto the return wall, or chosen starting point. Using a plumb line lightly pencil some guide marks form ceiling to skirting.
Measure your first length, allowing an extra 50mm (2”) at the top and bottom and cut on the table. For best results, ensure the whole pattern appears in full at the top of the wall. |
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Always leave the paper to soak in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Lay the wallcovering face down on the pasting table. Mark the top of the paper on the back with a ‘T’ to avoid confusion when you start to hang.
Align the wallcovering with the far edge of the table; apply paste (especially to the far edge) by brushing away from the centre to the far edge, covering in a herringbone pattern. Take care not to pull the brush over the edge of the paper, getting paste on the surface. When complete pull the wallcovering to the front of the table and paste it in the same way, ensuring the near edge is fully pasted.
Fold over, slide length on and continue pasting until the full cut length is complete ensuring a good even coat of paste on the whole of the paper.
For long drops, as on a stairwell, fold paper concertina fashion. Carry the drop draped over your arm.
Take care not to get paste on the surface of the paper as it could damage the finish if not removed. Use a clean bucket of water and a sponge to clean paste of the surface. Do not scrub the paper – let the water in the sponge dilute the paste and absorb it back into the sponge. |
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Having pasted the paper and allowed it to soak, in line with the manufacturer’s instructions, hang the top fold against the plumbed line and brush out from the centre, working down.
When the paper is smoothly brushed down, run the outer edge of your scissors along the ceiling angle, peel away the paper, cut off the excess along the crease, and then brush back onto the wall. Alternatively, use a sharp blade and a straight edge. If using a snap-off blade, change the blade regularly.
At the skirting, tap your brush gently into the top edge, peel away the paper and cut along the folded line with your scissors or blade as before, then brush back.
Using a sponge and a bucket of clean water, make sure you remove all the paste from the surface of the paper.
Cut your next piece, allowing for the pattern repeat, paste and soak as before. Hang, butting up to the first, taking care to match the pattern. Do not overlap.
Continue this process to the next corner. |
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Never hang a full width wallcovering around an inside corner. Always do it in two pieces.
First measure the distance from the edge of the last piece you hung to the corner. Do this at several points between the ceiling and skirting to find the maximum distance. Then take a length of wallcovering and cut it so that it is about 15mm (½”) wider than this measurement. Paste it and hang the extra 15mm overlapping round the corner on to the next wall. Where corners are not accurately plastered, you must be more generous with the overlap.
On the next wall take the rest of the piece and mark a vertical guideline a little more than its width out from the corner.
Paste the length and hang it, matching the pattern, alongside the vertical line and perfectly parallel to it, brushing back into the corner and overlapping the 15mm which has already been carried round.
For outside corners follow the same technique, although you should allow a wrap around of at least 50mm (2”).
Blown vinyl can be difficult to stick down. To overlap thicker wallcoverings, slice through the two thicknesses after overlapping and remove the surplus pieces from underneath, so giving you a perfect butt joint. When slicing through, use a good straightedge and a very sharp knife, cutting at a low angle – and take great care.
Flat vinyls or wallcoverings with a similar shiny surface can require a special border adhesive. |
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| Cutting Around Electric Switches and Sockets |
Be very careful when applying wallcoverings over, under or around electrical switches, sockets or similar items. We recommend turning off the supply at the mains. Smooth the wallcovering down very gently over the fitting and then, for square shapes, pierce the paper and make diagonal cuts from the centre to each corner.
Press the wallcovering firmly around the edge of the fitting, lightly mark the outline and trim away the surplus.
For circular objects, such as ceiling centres, light fittings; make a series of cuts producing a star shape. Press down around the outline, mark and trim in the same way.
Some decorators prefer to slightly unscrew the fitting so that the wallcovering can be tucked just behind its edges. In such cases, the power must be switched off to avoid electric shocks. |
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| Papering Behind Radiators |
| Ideally, you should drain a radiator and take it off the wall so that you can paper behind it. If that is not possible, first turn off the heat and wait for the radiator to cool. Paste the strip of paper to the wall above the radiator. Then slit it from the bottom edge so that you can smooth it down on either side of the radiator’s fixing brackets. Press the paper into place behind the radiator, using a narrow radiator paint roller. |
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| Hanging into a recessed window is not as daunting as it may at first seem, as long as you accept that almost inevitably there is going to be some ‘patching in’. The important thing about patching in is that you identify, before starting, the place it will be best hidden. This will depend on the type of curtains or blinds you have at the window.
Professional decorators use a number of methods and the following is a typical example to get the best result:
Hang the length that goes into the recess and make horizontal cuts, top and bottom, to allow the spare piece to be brushed into the recess.
Butt join the next piece above the window and turn under the recess and trim up.
Butt join the next piece below the window and trim. Continue with this sequence until the other side of the window is reached.
Hang the final length for the other side of the window as before.
Cut and paste fill-in pieces, slightly over-sized, to allow for laying under the paper already hung. Then peel back the edges of the full drops, position and trim the pieces, ensuring that any pattern matches are accounted for before brushing back down the edges of the full drops. If need be, use the double cut technique as explained in the ‘Dealing with Corners’ section. |
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The only real problem with papering a stairwell is the extra long drops on the side walls. You will need to build a safe work platform over the stairs.
Plumb and hang the longest drop first, lapping the head wall above the stairs by 12mm (½”).
Carrying the long drops of wallcovering – sometimes as much as 4.5 metre (15ft) long – can be awkward; paste the covering liberally so it’s not likely to dry out while you hang it, then fold it concertina fashion. Drape it over your arm while you climb the platform. You will need a helper to support the weight of the pasted length while you apply it, taking care not to stretch the paper. Unfold the flaps as you work down.
Crease and cut the bottom of the paper against the angled skirting. Don’t forget, when first you cut the length, to allow for this angle; work to the longest edge measurement. Work away from this first length in each direction.
Finally paper the head wall.
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| With the new technological developments in paper production, the paper used for paste the wall material does not expand when wet and therefore does not need to be soaked before hanging. The adhesive can, therefore, be applied directly to the wall and the paper cut straight off the wall making it a clean and easy process. |
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Read the manufacturer’s instructions on the label. Follow soak times carefully, as this will prevent shrinkage, and use the correct adhesive.
Keep the face of the paper clean, removing adhesive with a sponge and clean water.
Take care to apply an even amount of adhesive on the paper, particularly the edges.
Make sure that the wall is properly prepared, smooth and clean. Good preparation will ensure a better finish.
Always use a sharp knife or scissors so as not to tear the paper.
Marking the top of the paper on the reverse with a pencil ‘T’ will ensure you don’t hang a piece upside down.
Don’t assume a paper comes off a roll in the direction it will be hung. Look at the design to make sure you hang it the right way up. |
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